I have been intrigued by the blogger's comments about zaru kiri and zaru age, and have tried zaru kiri twice so far, draining washed rice in a colander and letting stand for 10 minutes each time before soaking in water, but I have failed to detect any discernible difference of the rice in texture when cooked.
ざる切りとざる上げに関する、この方のコメントに興味を持ち、これまでざる切りを2回(研いだお米をざるに上げ、10分放置してから水に漬ける)試してみましたが、炊けたご飯の食感に、はっきりとした違いを見つけることはできませんでした。
This site, run by another rice store, describes a comparative test they conducted, saying that they felt that the rice drained and let stand for 2 hours and then soaked in water for 1 hour had a slightly firmer texture when cooked, but when they tasted the rice again, after the rice was kept warm for 3 hours, they did not find any difference in texture.
This particular rice store says that zaru age is not recommended because there are a lot of risks involved in it. Here is a summary of the reasons:
If soaked in water, rice will be influenced comparatively less by the environment, and will absorb water evenly.
If drained and let stand in a colander, however, rice will be in direct contact with the air, so that it can be dried and cracked, and can absorb smell.
There are also sanitation problems, such as that the rice will be more likely to be contaminated with the dust and germs that are in the air.
They say that in their past 30-year-odd experience, all complaints about rice being cracked or turning brownish have been attributable to zaru age.
別のお米屋さんのサイトには、比較テストの記述があり、2時間ざる上げし、その後1時間水に漬けたお米を炊くと、若干しっかりした歯ごたえがあると感じたが、3時間保温後に再度試食した時は食感に違いはなかった、と述べています。
このお米屋さんは、ざる上げを薦めてはいません。それは、ざる上げには多くのリスクがあるからだそうです。その理由をまとめます:
水煮浸ける場合は、環境に比較的影響されず、万遍なく水を吸収します。
ところが、ざる上げすると、直接空気に触れるので、乾燥して割れ易く、また臭いを吸着します。
また、空気中にある埃やばい菌に汚染され易い、などの衛生面の問題もあります。
過去30年余りの経験の中で、米が割れたとか褐変したというクレームの全てがざる上げに起因するものだったそうです。
(To be continued/続く)
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