Yesterday, I went to Nagaoka by train. One of the things I wanted to do there was to buy some bread at MARCIAN. I ordered one loaf of Star Bread and one loaf of Muku the day before yesterday to make sure I could get them. Star Bread is MARCIAN's flagship product. According to their official website, they sell 1000 loaves of Star Bread per day. I posted about Muku previously here in my blog.
昨日は電車で長岡に行きました。目的の一つはマルシャンでパンを買うことでした。
スターブレッドと無垢（むく）を確実に買えるように、一昨日、一斤（いっきん）づつ注文しました。スターブレッドはマルシャンの代表作だそうで、マルシャンのオフィシャルサイトによれば、一日に1000本も売れるそうです。無垢については以前このブログのここで紹介しました。
I took these photos of the interior after I got permission to do so from the staff.
以下の内部の写真はスタッフの方々の許可を得てから撮影しました。
Muku:
無垢：
Tenjuku is another great bread they produce. You can tell the flavor of natural leaven.
天熟もマルシャンが作る素晴らしいパンです。天然酵母の風味が分かります。
天熟もマルシャンが作る素晴らしいパンです。天然酵母の風味が分かります。
At MARCIAN, they use Hoshino Natural Leaven (Japanese only) to produce bread. This particular natural leaven is produced by growing rice-derived yeast with domestic wheat, domestic gen-nouyaku-mai (rice cultivated with a reduced amount of agricultural chemicals), koji (rice malt), and water. No chemical substances are used.
マルシャンでは、ホシノ天然酵母を使ってパンを作っています。この天然酵母は、米由来の酵母を国産の小麦、国産の減農薬米、麹、水で育てて作られています。化学物質は使われていません。
Appearance of MARCIAN Honten (Head Office)
マルシャン本店の外観
マルシャンでは、ホシノ天然酵母を使ってパンを作っています。この天然酵母は、米由来の酵母を国産の小麦、国産の減農薬米、麹、水で育てて作られています。化学物質は使われていません。
Appearance of MARCIAN Honten (Head Office)
マルシャン本店の外観
At Jupiter, an imported food shop, I bought several intriguing items.
輸入食品店ジュピターでは、興味深いものをいくつか買いました。
Blueberry Wine from Germany:
ドイツのブルーベリーワイン：
The sad thing was that I was unable to get Kiri Pan from this Japanese sweets shop: Kawanishi Ya Honten (Japanese only):
悲しかったのは、この和菓子屋さんで「きりぱん」を買えなかったことです。川西屋本店：
悲しかったのは、この和菓子屋さんで「きりぱん」を買えなかったことです。川西屋本店：
Kawanishi Ya Honten is famous for its saka manju, which was loved by Yamamoto Isoroku.
川西屋本店は山本五十六が愛した酒まんじゅうで有名です。
I made a phone call the day before yesterday to order two kiri pan, but the voice said the shop owner had torn his Achilles tendon. I was asked to call again the next day. After all, the shop was closed.
Images of Kiri Pan can be found here and here.
Kiri pan is made from saka manju dough.
きりぱんを二本注文しようと一昨日、電話したのですが、店主がアキレス腱を切ったという話で、翌日また電話をくれるよう言われました。結局、店は閉まっていました。
きりぱんの画像はこことここにあります。
きりぱんは酒まんじゅうの皮の生地でできています。
Initially, I planned to visit Yukyuzan park, but because of the heavy rainfall (a heavy rain warning had been issued), I had to give up the plan.
当初は悠久山公園に行こうと思っていたのですが、大雨のため（大雨警報が出ていました）、諦めました。
I returned to Nagaoka Station, paid another visit to Jupiter and got another bottle of wine, among others.
Honey Wine:
長岡駅に戻り、ジュピターにまた行って、別のワインなどを買いました。
はちみつワイン：
Images of Kiri Pan can be found here and here.
Kiri pan is made from saka manju dough.
きりぱんを二本注文しようと一昨日、電話したのですが、店主がアキレス腱を切ったという話で、翌日また電話をくれるよう言われました。結局、店は閉まっていました。
きりぱんの画像はこことここにあります。
きりぱんは酒まんじゅうの皮の生地でできています。
Initially, I planned to visit Yukyuzan park, but because of the heavy rainfall (a heavy rain warning had been issued), I had to give up the plan.
当初は悠久山公園に行こうと思っていたのですが、大雨のため（大雨警報が出ていました）、諦めました。
I returned to Nagaoka Station, paid another visit to Jupiter and got another bottle of wine, among others.
Honey Wine:
長岡駅に戻り、ジュピターにまた行って、別のワインなどを買いました。
はちみつワイン：
This one is also from Germany.
これもドイツ産です。
I had the two buns that I had bought at MARCIAN for lunch.
昼ごはんとしてマルシャンで買っておいたパンを二つ食べました。
An pan:
あんぱん：
これもドイツ産です。
I had the two buns that I had bought at MARCIAN for lunch.
昼ごはんとしてマルシャンで買っておいたパンを二つ食べました。
An pan:
あんぱん：
Walnut and cream cheese bun:
クルミとクリームチーズパン
クルミとクリームチーズパン
Where did I have them and the wine? Here.
どこでパンとワインを食べたかというと、ここです。
どこでパンとワインを食べたかというと、ここです。
I later had Yasuda Yogurt soft-serve ice cream in the food court on the first floor of the station building.
後で、駅ビルの一階にあるフードコートでヤスダヨーグルトのソフトクリームを食べました。
後で、駅ビルの一階にあるフードコートでヤスダヨーグルトのソフトクリームを食べました。
The best soft-serve ice cream I've ever had!
今まで食べた中で一番美味しいソフトクリームです！
***
Muku:
無垢：
Muku does not contain eggs, milk, sugar, or butter, and has its own unique texture.
無垢には卵、牛乳、砂糖、バターは入っておらず、独特の食感です。
無垢には卵、牛乳、砂糖、バターは入っておらず、独特の食感です。
Star Bread:
スターブレッド：
スターブレッド：
Star Bread Cheese, to be exact. Star Bread is available in four different flavors: Cheese, raisin, milk, and walnut, as shown here.
正確に言うと、スターブレッドチーズです。スターブレッドはここに書かれている通り、４種類（チーズ、レーズン、ミルク、くるみ）の風味があります。
正確に言うと、スターブレッドチーズです。スターブレッドはここに書かれている通り、４種類（チーズ、レーズン、ミルク、くるみ）の風味があります。
It was soft, moist, and sweet. I liked it, but quite frankly, I was much more interested in Muku and Tenjuku.
柔らかく、しっとりしていて、甘いです。美味しかったですが、正直、無垢や天熟のほうにずっと興味があります。
柔らかく、しっとりしていて、甘いです。美味しかったですが、正直、無垢や天熟のほうにずっと興味があります。
10 comments:
Hiroyuki, it has got absolutely nothing to do with the French idea of good bread (i.e. loose soft interior with big irregular holes as a sign of good long natural fermentation and very crunchy crust). For the French it will always remain American bread, though nowadays many French bakers bake toast bread (the French like toasts in the morning but traditionalists will never buy this bread). The funny thing is that toast bread tastes better in French supermarkets than at French bakers' because they simply don't put their heart into it... The French are very proud of their traditional bread (at the same level as wine or cheese).
As you have noticed recently, I do like this type of bread for certain specific uses, but I prefer baguette for sandwiches and in general French bread as "carb" part of meal (the French serve often a whole meal without carbs and always put some bread aside (it's there at every meal, even when there are lots of carbs); it's like Japanese rice a bit in that it's a staple: the meal is not complete without it, hence the attachment of the French to their traditional bread. My husband likes toast bread for sandwiches much more than me (even though he is French!): he finds it more practical to eat and it leaves no crumbs.
I have recently seen an old tv program about two French bakerie, one in Tokyo and one in Kyoto I think. It was at least 15 years old, so I suppose there must be more French bakers nowadays in Japan.
I wonder if mead and the fruit alcohol are called "wein" in Germany or only in Japan. In France mead is also produced (actually in many countries, such as Poland) but only grape products can be called "wine".
Blueberry wine and honey wine? Careful with those - headaches...
Met was the booze of the ancient germans before they invented beer and learned to make proper wine from grapes (or so), Vikings loved it too. Production is easy: mix water and honey and let it ferment - honey comes with wild yeasts. Met is also very high on alcohol. Often Met is made with spices which makes it more interesting for some. You can buy met at medieval festivals, christmas markets and often at organic farmers markets or shops where they sell honey products (typical for a market stall: honey, bee wax candles, honey toffees, met,liquer, honey soap). It is not that much liked by us locals but tourists still love it. You will not find Met in many german homes unless you know some medieval cosplayers (awakes the viking in you).
As for fruit wine - until the sixties it was very common to make own fruit wines as plum, blueberry (huckleberries), cherry, raspberry, gooseberry wine. It was just a way to deal with the fruit harvest of your big gardens, farm land. You still can buy all the stuff you need, to make your own wine (at home) as the special breed pure yeast, sulfur, some special fermatation containers/bottles and everything else so there must be people still making fruits wine. I remember my grandmother made some too. Wether the wine is good or not depends. Most of the time it is awfully sweet and you may suffer from tummy ache and serious headache the morning after. The wine my grandmother made was sometimes called rodent strangler (behind her back).
It is interesting to see that such wines are sold in Japan because they are special and not that common anymore, not the usual stuff you buy in your grocery store or super market.
Sissi: I deleted that part altogether because I thought it was inappropriate and insulting to some people, thanks to your comment.
Talking of wine, the term champagne was once used on bottles of sparkling wine made in Japan. The term is no longer used because the French took exception to the use of the term for something that was not "champagne".
Kiki: I didn't have any headache. I can't speak for those who can't hold liquor, but that small amount of wine can't give me a headache or hangover. And, yes, they were both quite sweet! But anyway, I liked them both.
Hiroyuki, insulting... I hope my comment is not insulting! (If yes, delete it please!). It's certainly very long now that I look at it!. I thought your description and comments were very interesting! Though the French would argue a lot about the French bread similarity ;-)
Actually I wanted to add that it's incredible that something which is made in the US without too much fuss (the soft bread from what I understood) is so carefully worked in Japan. I have this impression the Japanese professionals put love into everything they do and tend to perfection... Recently someone said on a food blog that the best Italian cuisine outside of Italy is in Japan and I'm not surprised ;-)
I prepare every year fruit alcohols (my favourite is black currant and sour cherry) but it's not fermented, just infused, so I cannot call it wine. I make them only a bit sweet because I don't like sweet alcohol. Pity I cannot make you taste some of my fruit-infused vodkas ;-) My Japanese friend who lives in Tokyo liked them a lot. (Especially the black currant).
Hiroyki, I'm glad you liked the wine! Some people say they have headache after white wine, some say after red wine... I only have headache when I drink really too much ;-) The trick I have learnt a long time ago is to drink equal amount of water and alcohol. It helps to avoid hangover...
Hiroyuki: Now I feel a little bit sorry but I never questioned wether you can hold your alcohol or not - guess most japanese men are quite strong drinkers. You can get headache and the runnings from little amounts of berry wine. It is caused by the yeast and they sometimes add lots of sugar to the berry mash (I believe in fusel oils). The Katlenburger brewery is located in my state, the state of Lower Saxony so it has to be good. They even got a castle in Katlenburg (now a restaurant formerly a monestry) so you could visit the castle and the brewery and some gloomy place, and old mill, whereas a maid once killed 6 robbers with an axe (she chopped of their heads as they tried to sneak into the mill).
Sissi: I found your comment enlightening not insulting! As inspired by your comment, I started learning about French bread, and I found that irregular holes are, indeed, considered a requirement of good French bread. I also learned about low kneading temperature (24oC), low mixing, wheat flour used, etc. I even found a site
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJRpBCVfN_Q
explaining how to make French bread with holes.
(Later, I went to a supermarket that has a bakery section in it, and bought one batard (no baguette available), returned home, cut it, and found no such irregular holes in it.)
While having a slice of Muku bread, my daughter remarked, "Mochi-mochi shitete oishii!" (It's mochi-like and tasty!) I'm not sure why the combination of flour, salt, yeast, and water results in this unique texture. Probably the answer can be found in the use of Hoshino Natural Leaven, which requires longtime permentation, and the lava oven they use may be a factor, too.
Kiki: Thanks for the clarification. Now I know what you really meant.
In your state?! Wow, I have to visit your state some day and have lots of wine, and of course, beer and German bread!
Thank you so much, Hiroyuki. I have forgotten to say something about champagne. Many countries tried to sell as "champagne" their own sparkling wines (USSR for example), but the problem is Champagne is a region in France, while sparkling wines are produced in so many countries. Moreover, very few sparkling wines producers bother to use the complicated method called "champenoise". The difference between a cheap Italian sparkling wine (5 euros) and a good bottle of champagne (30 euros) is huge. Only not the famous brand with orange label! It's really bad... though expensive and famous. Actually one of my favourite champagne producers (a woman) sells lots of bottles to Japan every year. She is not famous at all, but expensive of course and her champagne is extraordinary. With a lot of character.
A similar legal problem was with the famous Hungarian "Tokay" which... the French used to put on qome of their Alsace region bottles (they used to put "tokay pinot gris" on their bottles). Finally there was a legal battle and they no longer have the right to add "tokay" on the same grounds: Tokay is a region, not type of wine or varietal.
Making good French bread is very difficult and when it's quickly made it's heavy, chewy etc.. Even many bakers in France do it with quicker methods, so it took me a long time to find a correct baker even in France! Yesterday my husband bought some bread from our favourite baker in France (luckily just outside the border!). Some holes were as big as a cherry tomato! The crust was dark, crunchy and the bread was so light! Even this baker sometimes has worse days and bread is not always perfect! I should have taken some photos. I will next time.
Sissi: Thank you for an interesting episode about champagne. Sadly, I've never had champagne, so I can never tell the difference between champagne and sparkling wines.
I'm sure that if "shoku pan" (the dominant type of bread in Japan) had such big holes, it would be considered defective. What a difference! I have also learned that steam is applied to the dough while baking (in the initial stages of baking?) to make such big holes. I hope I can have authentic French bread (baguette) some day to appreciate its flavor and texture.
Baguette: from my little experience I think most asian people don't like to eat the real thing. My chinese guests decribed it: It is too hard to chew, the crisp crust hurts the gum and it is too dry to swallow.
If you are used to soft breads aka US american bread culture - and it seems so, you may be quite disappointed too.
I often stay in hotels and there are always huge amounts of asian tourists too (japanese, chinese, korean), for breakfast they will never go for baguette or beware german whole meal dark bread but for croissants and soft milk buns.
Kiki: There is a lot of truth in what you say (laugh) (laugh)!
I am much of a purist in almost anything, so I am all for French bread, which is made with minimum required ingredients.
Although the Japanese owe a lot to the United States about the habit of eating bread for meals, but we already developed a great tradition of making saka manju and other buns from fermented dough before the Meiji period. I really wanted to taste the Kiri Pan. I thought that I could learn a lot from it.
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