August 11, 2013

Learning from Shukan Flavor, Part 3/週間フレーバーで学ぶ パート3

Shukan (= Weekly) Flavor 9 is about extraction temperatures.

Shukan Flavor 9/週間フレーバー9

Nakagawa-san makes three experiments: ordinary way of brewing coffee (Kalita method, although using Matsuya's wire-frame dripper), one type of the Matsuya method, where he pours water as if to "place" it on the coffee grounds, and the other type of the Matsuya method, where he pours water at a height of 30 cm.
中川さんは実験を3つします:一般的なコーヒーの入れ方(カリタ式。松屋の金枠ドリッパーを使っていますが) 、一種類の松屋式(「コーヒーの粉に水を「のせる」ようにお湯を入れる)、もう一種類の松屋式(高さ30 cmからお湯を入れる)。

He first says that what is important is the temperature of the coffee grounds, not that of the water in the drip pot.

At 9:38, he starts pouring water to bloom the coffee grounds. The temperature of the water in the drip pot is 95C. He waits until the coffee grounds sink twice (coffee grounds temperature: 72.6C), then starts pouring water. The water flow is thicker than with the Matsuya method. The coffee grounds reach 89C or higher. When he finishes pouring, the coffee grounds are 87.8C. With this method, the temperature of coffee grounds will become almost equal to that of the water, he says.
9:38、お湯を入れ始め、コーヒーの粉を膨らませます。ドリップポットの中のお湯の温度は95Cです。コーヒーの粉が二回沈むのを待ち(コーヒーの粉の温度: 72.6C)、お湯を入れ始めます。お湯は松屋式と比べると太いです。コーヒーの粉は89C以上にも達します。お湯を入れ終わると、コーヒーの粉の温度は87.8C。この方法では、コーヒーの粉の温度は、お湯の温度とほぼ同じになるそうです。

At 14:40, Nakagawa-san shows chikutan (bamboo charcoal) muddlers, which are said to be capable of adsorbing off-flavors. You don't have to use a chikutan muddler if you can make flavorful coffee, because it will "blur" the flavor.

At 21:40, he starts brewing coffee with one type of the Matsuya method. (I think this type is Nakagawa-san's version of the Matsuya method.) The initial temperature of the water is 95C. He waits for 3 minutes until the coffee grounds are fully "steamed". The temperature of the coffee grounds is 75.4C. He then starts pouring water. The water temperature is now 90C (Nakagawa-san does not reheat the water). The coffee grounds reach 80C. With the Matsuya method, the temperature of the coffee grounds is lower than that of the water.

With this type of the Matsuya method, which does not stimulate the coffee grounds and does not let oil pass through the paper filter, you will get coffee with clear flavor suitable for drinking black.



At 32:12, Nakagawa-san starts brewing coffee with the other version of the Matsuya method (I think it is the current version of the Matsuya method, practiced at Matsuya Coffee). At 36:24, he starts pouring water from a height of 30 cm. At 36:57, he starts explaining the "edge of the surf" theory. It's hard to run on dry sand, it's hard to run on sand in water, but you can run at the edge of surf because the sand is hard. When you pour water from a high position, the water force reaches the paper filter, letting oil pass through it. With this type of the Matsuya method, you will get thick coffee suitable for drinking with milk.
32:12、中川さんは、もう一つの種類の松屋式(松屋コーヒーで実践している、現在のバージョンの松屋式だと思います)でコーヒーを淹れ始めます。36:24、30 cmの高さから水を入れ始めます。36:57、「波打ち際」理論を説明し始めます。乾いた砂の上を走るのは難しいし、水の中で砂の上を走るのも難しい、が波打ち際では、砂が固いので、走ることができます。お湯を高い位置から入れると、お湯の力がペーパーフィルターにまで届き、オイルがフィルターを通ることができます。この種類の松屋式では、とろみのある、ミルクと一緒に飲むのに合うコーヒーができます。

The coffee grounds reach 79C, slightly lower than that with the former type of the Matsuya method. Nakagawa-san says even dark roast coffee beans will result in less bitter coffee if brewed at a lower temperature, which will bring you to the discussion on the Yasunaga method of brewing coffee.


Dan said...


Thanks for taking the time to post this very important piece on thermal stability now that all 3 experiments were conducted, whats his verdict on the very first method of pour over...I think 99% of the world follows that 1st method ...How does matsuya's method stand compared to the very first method...I understand the last method, were agitation is used to extract oil...but upon tasting side by side which was better...Does Nakagawa-san ever discuss that ..

Hiroyuki said...

Dan: Nakagawa-san is not a type of person who explicitly says that A is superior to B or C. As I mentioned in the post, Nakagawa-san says that the former type of the Matsuya method produces coffee suitable for drinking black, while the latter produces coffee suiable for drinking with milk.